Return to homepage
Return to homepage


 

Copyright © Carmel Bird 2004. All rights reserved.

 Port Arthur Holiday 1953 (continued)

 

We roamed over a wide area. Sometimes my father drove us out to a place such as the tessellated pavements and left us there, picking us up later. I learnt the word ‘tessellated’ and I thought it was beautiful. The natural pavement of stones lies like big blocks of wet chocolate between the cliff and the sea. We found lost bits of the primitive railway line that was used in the nineteenth century to transport stones for building, the power driving the wooden cars being not horses but humans.

 

The eeriest place was the golden church that stood on the hill, its tower resembling – or so I thought – a romantic little Norman castle. It had no roof, and trees and blackberries grew inside it. We believed it had never been consecrated because a murder had happened there. This possibly is not true. The church had been burnt, hollowed out by fire, as had the hospital and the penitentiary. There was a terrible narrative of fire, a kind of purging of all the other dark and hideous narratives that hung in the air, lay in the soil, seeped into my imagination. It was so easy to people the desolate landscape with brutal drunken jailers and starving abject prisoners.

 

Our fathers went out nearly every day in the boat, and different combinations of kids went with them. We got very sunburnt and had to apply a horrible combination of vinegar and castor oil to our skin after the event. Why not just the oil? I don’t know. What we mostly caught on our fishing trips were barracuda which the women cooked for dinner. Loris and I talked the men into taking us to the Isle of the Dead where the graves of members of the prison hierarchy were marked, and the graves of the prisoners were not. We stood in awed horror on the cliff at the peninsular of Point Puer where convicted boys used to jump to their deaths.

 

At night we played cards. Sometimes in the hot late afternoon we played cricket on our vast green ground, the ball and our voices, I think I recall, echoing in the empty quiet of the place. I was conscious always of the presence of the ruins which were infested with blackberries, and conscious also of the growling menace of the sea.  

 

You can see that I lapped all this up with a joyful teenage lust, fascination and greed. And, to continue the narrative of greed, I have a recollection of jugs of local cream and bowls of fragrant local strawberries. And honey. We had Christmas cake and cold plum pudding and tins of ham and sweet biscuits.

 

In an old public building there was a bright octagonal room with a beautiful dance floor. We believed this building had been a lunatic asylum. One Saturday night there was a dance. I wore the only dress I had brought which was green linen with little squares of orange and white scattered across the fabric. It had a white collar with green embroidery. I realize that my old dresses are often quite vivid in my memory. I had white sandals. Pride of Erin , Barn Dance, Tangoette. A woman in a dark sparkly dress played the piano. Who were the people who came to the dance? I don’t really know, but I met a terrifically attractive red-haired boy from Hobart . He wanted us to go for a walk to the blow hole together. In the spooky dark. It was really tempting, but I was so frightened of the blowhole I said no, and the boy disappeared. I imagine I was also frightened of the boy.  

 

I think I was right about the blowhole. Wrong about the boy?  

 

 

 

Return to homepage
Return to homepage

ABOUT | RED_SHOES | DEAR_WRITER | AUTOMATIC_TELLER | THE_WHITE_GARDEN | THE_BLUEBIRD_CAFE | DAUGHTERS_&_FATHERS | WORK_IN_PROGRESS | STOLEN_GENERATION | EMAIL |